The Art of Preparation

Maxi's unconventional packing style perfectly foreshadows the most critical aspect of our Kungsleden adventure: preparation. The trail's remote nature necessitates meticulous planning, as there's no opportunity to resupply once you've started. Food, fuel, cooking gear, and even toilet paper must be carefully considered and packed. For four novice hikers, this was a daunting task.

The inspiration for this trip came from a former colleague at Doka, Michal. He had previously attempted the Kungsleden but fell short due to inadequate preparation. His firsthand experience highlighted the importance of thorough planning and the necessary equipment. By sharing his knowledge and insights, Michal paved the way for our own Kungsleden adventure.

Packing for a week-long wilderness adventure requires a delicate balance between practicality and weight. We carefully considered each item, aiming for a lightweight yet comprehensive pack.

Shelter and Sleep:

• Tents: We opted for two three-person tents, providing ample space for gear and comfortable sleeping arrangements.
• Sleeping Pads and Bags: These were essential for insulating us from the cold ground and ensuring cozy nights.
• Sleeping Masks: Given the long summer days in Lapland, sleeping masks were a necessity to block out the constant daylight.

Clothing:

• Versatile Layers: We packed a mix of lightweight and warm layers to adapt to changing weather conditions.
• Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots were a must, providing support and protection on the rugged terrain.
• Accessories: Hats, gloves, and a rain poncho were included to shield us from the elements.

Hygiene and First Aid:

• Biodegradable Products: To minimize our environmental impact, we used eco-friendly toiletries.
• First Aid Kit: A well-stocked first aid kit was essential for addressing any potential injuries or ailments.

Food and Cooking:

• Lightweight Cookware: A compact cooking set and individual utensils were packed for meal preparation.
• Food Supplies: We planned our meals in advance and packed dehydrated food to minimize weight.
• Fishing Gear: Jonas and I brought fishing rods, hoping to supplement our diet with fresh catches.

Other Essentials:

• Electronics: Cameras, headlamps, and power banks were included to capture memories and stay connected.
• Entertainment: A deck of Uno cards provided entertainment for downtime.
• Navigation Tools: A map and compass were essential for navigating the trail.

With our packs carefully organized, we were ready to embark on our Kungsleden adventure.

Planning our route was relatively straightforward, as the Kungsleden is a well-established trail with limited options. The real challenge lay in selecting suitable campsites. Sweden's "Allemansrätt" (Everyman's Right) principle allows for wild camping, granting us the freedom to pitch our tents almost anywhere. While there were designated huts along the trail, we weren't restricted to these sites. The abundance of fresh water sources, often filtered through natural streams and lakes, further simplified our preparations. Although a water filter wasn't strictly necessary, it was a wise precaution to ensure the purity of our drinking water.

Day 1: A Journey Begins

Our overnight train journey was a remarkable experience. We slept soundly in our three-tiered compartment, waking up refreshed and ready to embark on our adventure. The train traversed through the remote landscapes of Sweden, offering breathtaking views that we unfortunately missed due to our slumber.

In Umea, we transferred to a smaller train for the final leg of our journey. A chance encounter with a friendly German traveler led to a spontaneous seat swap, allowing us to spend the last two hours playing an intense game of Uno.

As the train journey drew to a close, the anticipation for our Kungsleden adventure grew. Stepping off the train in Abisko, we were immediately immersed in the wilderness. The town itself serves as the gateway to the Kungsleden, making it impossible to miss the trailhead.

With a few quick photos at the starting point, we bid farewell to civilization and embarked on our journey. The trail was sparsely populated, with only a handful of other hikers, including the friendly German traveler we had met on the train. This solitude would become a defining characteristic of our Kungsleden experience.

Our first day on the Kungsleden was a challenging introduction to the wilderness. The national park regulations prohibited camping and fishing, so our immediate goal was to hike through the park and find a suitable campsite outside its boundaries.

We began our trek by filling our water bottles from a nearby river, a refreshing start to our adventure. The trail led us through a serene birch forest, offering stunning views of the surrounding landscape. However, the weight of our heavily packed backpacks quickly became a burden, a testament to our underestimation of the physical demands of the hike.

As we hiked, we encountered another formidable foe: the mosquito. These relentless insects, larger than we had ever seen, swarmed us at every opportunity. We had to balance the need for rest with the desire to avoid becoming a mosquito buffet.

Despite the challenges, the breathtaking scenery and the thrill of the adventure kept us motivated. We soon reached the end of the national park, where we were finally free to camp. We found a picturesque spot near a bridge, joining a small community of fellow hikers.

After setting up camp, Jonas and I attempted to catch our dinner, but our fishing skills were no match for the elusive Swedish fish. We settled for a hearty spaghetti dinner instead. To cool off from the day's exertions, we took a bracing dip in the icy river. The shock of the cold water was invigorating, and we emerged feeling refreshed.

As the day wound down, we gathered in our tent for a game of Uno. With the sun setting late, we donned our sleeping masks and drifted off to sleep, surrounded by the tranquility of the Swedish wilderness.

Day 4: A Challenging Day and a Stunning Campsite

The next day began promisingly, and we set off on our planned route, aiming to reach the junction where the Kungsleden and Kebenaisleden trails diverge. We planned to camp near the hut at this junction, taking advantage of the flat terrain and potential amenities.

We started the day with a light breakfast, eager to make progress on the trail. The landscape began to change as we ventured deeper into the valley. The river widened, forcing us to navigate through multiple crossings. We had to be creative in finding suitable paths, sometimes wading through the water.

As we continued, we grew concerned that we had missed the junction to the Kebenaisleden. I decided to explore a higher vantage point, hoping to spot the hut. However, my intrusion into a bird's breeding territory resulted in a series of aggressive dive-bombing attacks. I learned my lesson and returned to the trail.

Relief washed over us as we finally spotted the hut. However, our plans to camp nearby were disrupted by the news that camping fees were required. Unwilling to pay for a spot that offered little value, we decided to continue our hike and find a suitable campsite.

The need for an internet connection for Jonas further motivated us to push on. We left the official Kungsleden trail and ventured into the mountains. The wind picked up significantly, making it difficult to find a sheltered campsite. After a thorough search, we discovered a small, wind-protected spot with a breathtaking view. It was easily our most stunning campsite though also the one we had to search for the longest. During the search some tension rose but this tension quickly disappeared once we had our spot.

Despite the harsh conditions, we made a small fire to dry our shoes. The cold weather deterred us from swimming in the nearby mountain lake, so we settled for a game of Uno and a pasta dinner. With a sense of accomplishment, we retired to our tents, knowing that we had made significant progress on the trail.

Day 6: A Triumphant Finish and a Memorable Catch

The final day of our trek was indeed a breeze. The flat, well-maintained path made for easy walking, and the anticipation of a delicious meal at the Nikkaluokta hut kept us motivated. Niki, eager to reach the finish line, picked up the pace, leaving the rest of us struggling to keep up.

Despite the proximity to the end, Jonas and I couldn't resist the urge to fish one last time. We headed to the river, hoping to finally catch a decent-sized fish. As we had learned, the early morning hours were the most promising for fishing. We cast our lines, hoping for a bite.

The large, slow-moving river offered a unique fishing opportunity. Despite not knowing what species might inhabit such waters, we opted for a trout lure. To our surprise, we soon had a bite. After a brief struggle, we reeled in a decent-sized bass.

While we were excited about the prospect of a fresh fish dinner, we were also confident that we could catch more. This optimism, perhaps fueled by our recent success, led us to believe that we would have plenty of fish for the evening.

For the first time we were right in our fishing confidence. Shortly after the first fish was caught, Jonas landed a second one. Again, a bass. Fishing these waters became increasingly fun with us having one follow another.

With the belief that a third bass is lurking in the waters ahead I casted out my lure again. Jonas went a bit further upstream to try his luck there. Everything went normal until I saw a shadow follow my bait. A big shadow. I got excited big time, thinking I will catch the biggest bass yet. Now it was important to keep the bait spinning to keep the fish’s interest and get it to bite. The lure came closer and closer to the beach, and the shadow began speeding up. Before I know it I had the bite. But this was not a bass! The impact on the bait was too big. Immediately the fish realized that something was off, and a fight began. After a quick drill I managed to get the fish close enough to shore to have a look at it. I just hooked a big pike on a trout lure. This could be problematic, because a pike could easily slice through the line of my rod, set up to catch trout. Also, because we wanted to go for trout, we did not bring a net to help landing fish. A mistake as we should learn soon.

I wrestled the pike to the shore and Niki got ready to land the fish by hand. With Jonas not the scene (he is the only one in our group to ever catch a pike before) we were very close to make a big mistake. Niki was about to put his hand in the pike’s mouth to drag it out of the water. He nearly pulled this move up, put the pike managed to get rid of the bait in the last second and swam of. We later learned from Jonas, that we were in fact lucky this happened, because the trout would have sliced Nikis whole hand. So, I guess we were fortunate in misfortune. Even though we did not catch any more fish, we still had the two basses. These would be enough for a good feast later.

As we neared the end of the trail, a sense of bittersweet nostalgia washed over us. The familiar signs of civilization were both a welcome sight and a reminder that our adventure was coming to an end. The past six days had been a transformative experience, a test of our physical and mental limits. We had faced challenges together, shared laughter and frustration, and forged a deeper bond.

As we crossed the finish line, a mix of emotions surged through us. Joy, relief, and a profound sense of accomplishment filled our hearts. We had conquered the wilderness, pushed our boundaries, and emerged stronger. This adventure would forever be etched in our memories, a testament to our friendship and our shared love for the outdoors.